by sunny on February 2, 2012
Kyosho recently announced a race spec upgrade to one of their most exciting on-road cars. The new Kyosho Inferno GT2 Race Spec boasts a laundry list of improvements that should make it an attractive option for 1/8-scale racing fans.
Sporting a hardened main chassis coupled with a detailed slick body (choice of either a Corvette 2007 C6-R or an Audi R8 LMS), it makes for a strong and stylish racer that performs as beautifully as it looks. Also new to this version are composite chassis stiffeners, a better big block engine with polished tuned pipe and header, Metal Gear KS-200 servos, and a 3-piece racing clutch.
The Kyosho Inferno GT2 Race Spec uses the high-power K25, which delivers more torque and higher maximum speeds than the engine on previous GT2 vehicles. Out of the box, it can do 55 mph; with optional components, it can be tuned to hit maximum speeds of 70+ mph. For smoother gear changes and minimal shift shock, the car comes fitted with the previously optional shoe-type two-speed transmission. Kyosho’s latest KT-201 computerized 2.4GHz radio system, which features a blue LCD for quick access to control settings, is included.
Other details of the vehicle include a failsafe function (stops the car safely in the event of radio signal trouble), double-disc ABS braking, a 150cc fuel tank and a shaft drive system. The entire chassis is boxed pre-assembled, with the bodies fully painted and decaled. Just add batteries and fuel to start racing.
Slated for availability in March, the Kyosho Inferno GT2 Race Spec will retail for $949.99.
[Kyosho]
SPECS:
- Scale: 1/8th
- Length: 515mm
- Width: 310mm
- Height: 135mm
- Wheelbase: 360mm
- Gear Ration: 1st 10.14:1 2nd 7.90:1
- Weight: 3,650
- Engine: KE25 SG
- Radio: KT-201 2.4GHz
by sunny on January 3, 2012
Ford has been a staple of the World Rally Championships since the early 70s, bringing the legendary Escort and two-time winner Focus to the epic adventure race. The new HPI WR8 3.0 borrows from the team's 2011 Ford Fiesta rally racer, boasting gorgeous scale realism and high-output nitro power.
As you can see from the picture, it's a highly-detailed 1/8-scale replica of the road car used by the Ford Abu Dhabi World Rally Team. All elements of the body, from the shape to the decals, are built on point, making for one true-to-form recreation.
Based on the Bullet 3.0, the HPI WR8 3.0 uses an extended version of the truck's 3mm aluminum chassis, complete with a modified suspension and wheelbase. It retains the nitro truck's full-time 4WD shaft drivetrain, tough bevel gear differentials and twin disk brakes. The newly-upgraded Nitro Star G3.0 HO engine delivers the road-burning power.
Designed to perform like a real rally car, the vehicle features adjustable ground clearance, so you can tune regardless of what types of road conditions you're racing on. Other features include Gravel Spec rally tires similar to those used in WRC competition, extra-durable SF-10W servos, a raised skid plate on the front jumper, a 75cc fuel tank, front and rear sway bars, and rear shock mud guards.
The HPI WR8 3.0 Ford Fiesta Abu Dhabi Castrol WRC Nitro Rally Car is sold ready to run, packaged with a 2.4GHz radio control. No pricing yet, but it probably shouldn't go too much higher than the Bullet (under $500).
SPECIFICATIONS
- Length: 485mm
- Width: 227mm
- Height: 172mm
- Wheelbase: 300mm
- Drive System: full-time shaft 4WD
[HPI]
by sunny on September 7, 2011
Serpent has announced a new racer that they claim "sets new standards in 1/10-scale race chassis design." The vehicle is the Serpent 733 Team Edition, it gets many practical updates, stemming from real-world use by the team and factory drivers.
Boasting high cornering speeds, superb braking and a wide sweet spot, the vehicle should prove easier to race than any of the 733's previous iterations. Serpent also claims the ride features a newly-developed geometry, improved weight balance and very responsive steering.
The Serpent 733 Team Edition uses a 3mm machined aluminum chassis, with countersunk and chamfered edges that makes for a closed, rigid design. It has a mono-type engine mount for securely holding the engine, as well as a side bracket assembly (for mounting the receiver, switch, antenna and both servos) and a carbon fiber bracket on the opposite side of the front-mounted fuel tank for seating the battery, making for one compact layout. Sold as a kit, the racer comes with the new SL6 gearbox, an updated 75cc fuel tank with a Cobra tank-cap and seal system, the Direct Link system, rear-end aluminum-rubber connector set, rear camber bracket, rod-type stiffener and a whole load of other additions.
We can't find pricing or availability information anywhere in the web for now, but Serpent has already raced the 733 Team Edition last month (at the 1/10 scale 200mm Euros in Germany) and will probably figure in a few more events entered in by the team (including the US Nationals later this year). You can also check out the link below for more information.
Specs:
Class: 200mm 1/10th Scale 200mm
Purpose: 200mm Touring Car Racer
Chassis: 3mm aluminum, 7075 aerospace quality, CNC machined
Suspension: Independent double wishbone suspension
Radio plate: 2.5mm carbon fiber, CNC machined
Shock absorbers: RCCX shock absorbers
Fuel tank: 75cc design with new lid
Drive system: 4wd through kevlar reinforced timing belts
Clutch system: Centax-III clutch system
Front axle: Gear Differential (Optional One way axle )
Rear axle: Gear Differential
Gearbox: Lightweight SL6 2-speed with interchangeable fine pitch gears
Weight: 1.695kg (depending on radio gear)
Max. speed: 105km/h +
Acceleration: 0-90km/h 3.0 seconds
Instructions: Full color instruction manual, reference guide
Not included: Engine and pipe, body, radio equipment, battery pack, tires
[Serpent]
by sunny on January 24, 2011
On-road nitro may not be the biggest category in today's RC landscape, due to the often restrictive pricing and surface conditions it requires. Regardless, well-built speed freak nitro racers continue to be some of the most amazing miniature driving machines ever built and the Serpent 733 Evo is no exception.
Developed by Michael Salven, the 1/10-scale 4WD vehicle updates last year's version with a variety of changes that claims to deliver even smoother and faster performance. While I couldn't really care less for the body (disclaimer: tastes will vary), take a gander at the sampling of the machined gorgeousness below (aluminum, carbon and spring steel) and tell me you aren't salivating at the prospects of racing this on that groomed track an hour's drive from your place.
The 2011 Serpent 733 Evo is a top-level gas-guzzling roadster if I ever saw one. Main update for this iteration id the Serpent Flex Control rear end (which lets you vary the amount of flex using varying connectors), paired with the Direct Link System (which transfers the suspension pressure from one side to the other, creating a more balanced rear end grip). Other changes include a mono-type engine mount, mono-type ventilated disk brakes, rear anti-roll bar ball bearings and two-speed shaft bearings.
Serpent is releasing the car before the end of January. No pricing announced yet.
[Serpent]
by sunny on April 26, 2010
Looking to take your RC down the tracks for the first time? No need to mince words, you'll probably lose. Just because your chances of winning are slim doesn't mean you shouldn't do your best, right? After all, giving it all is how you improve in this game.
1. Aim for consistency. Your first couple of times racing should be about trying to get consistent lap times. Forget about beating that obnoxious loud dude and his beefed-up truck. Instead, aim to run a consistent course lap to lap.
2. Let faster trucks have their way. Sure, you can be competitive and refuse to give way during tangles. Do realize it's the easiest way to slow everyone down, including yourself, apart from heightening the chances of accidents occurring. Unless you've got a good shot at winning, wrecking your truck isn't worth the ego boost. You can get them later - after putting in some practice time.
3. Make sure your car can handle the occasional nervous driving. Racing brings out everyone's nerves. That means a potentially disastrous trigger finger at the most inopportune times. As long as your vehicle can recover and keep itself from spinning out, you'll be fine.
4. Watch experienced racers run the course. If you get the chance, watch some of the more experienced drivers handle the course. What lines are they talking? Where do they go fast or slow? Which jumps are they going for and which ones are they passing on? Seeing that gives you a good idea of how you should handle the tracks come race time.
by sunny on April 20, 2010
Schumacher just announced an update to one of the fastest cars in their roster. Boasting blistering speeds, the new Schumacher 2010 Nitro Fusion 28 Turbo is officially one of the most insanely neck-breaking RC models in the planet.
How fast can it go? A crazy top speed of over 80 mph, according to the company, which means it's going to leave me on my 50mph scooter in a head-to-head race. Powered by Picco's 4.5cc Schumacher X28 engine, it produces a hefty 3.25 horsepower and 40,000 rpm (compared to the 2.85 hp at 33,000 rpm of the previous Fusion 28), making for a fully race-tuned monster.
The Schumacher Fusion 28 Turbo is a four-wheel drive roadburner, with the street-savvy looks to match its awesome power. It comes with a pre-painted silver body with a either a blue or red trim, 12mm touring car wheel hex and high-grip ATS competition foam tires. Control is provided by a 2.4GHz digital radio system, with most everything you need ready to run out of the box.
Notable features of the 1/10th-scale model includes a 3-speed transmission, a CNC alloy tuned pipe, a 4mm thick anodized aluminum chassis, a fully-adjustable suspension based on the Fusion R12 and alloy shocks. Schumacher is also offering a full range of option parts compatible with the ride.
Available now, the Schumacher Fusion 28 Turbo is priced at £399.99.
Specifications:
Power Source: Nitro
Model Type: 4WD, ON-ROAD, LEISURE
Length: 420mm
Width: 200mm
Top Speed: 80+ mph
Build State: RTR
[Schumacher]
by sunny on March 29, 2010
You've got a new nitro engine. Learning how to break it in the right way is the shortest course to guaranteeing long-lasting performance, with the least amount of upkeep necessary. Failing to do so won't exactly get you with a messed up ride, but it leaves the doorway open for more frequent problems down the line.
What You Need
For your break-in, you need the following things:
- Around two hours of free time
- Three to five tanks of nitro fuel
- A clean, flat surface to run the car in
- Plenty of patience to do it the right way
Getting To Work
Start up the car and check to see if fuel is moving through the lines. If it doesn't reach the carburetor after five seconds, try priming the engine (i.e. place and release your finger over the tip of the exhaust for a couple of seconds). Make sure to release as soon as you see the fuel making its way accordingly. Holding on too long can cause the engine to flood and lock up.
The idea behind using five tanks of fuel is to increase the amount and duration of throttle with every run. Some advise making do with three, although we recommend running the full range and using five tanks.
On the first tank, give the engine a 1/4th throttle slowly (note on the slow throttle acceleration for all five tanks) for about two seconds, then hit the brakes. A nice trail of blue smoke should come from the exhaust. If not, try moving the air/fuel needle a quarter turn at a time to richen the fuel mixture until it starts blowing smoke. Continue the same quarter-throttle then braking until you run the tank to near-empty. Before going dry, pinch the fuel line (to turn engine off) and rest for fifteen minutes.
On the second tank, you do the same thing while going to half-throttle in three seconds. For the third, you do the same thing, then run three second counts while at half-throttle, before hitting the brakes. On the fourth, you go full throttle three seconds before braking. In your last tank, you do the same thing, except you hold the full throttle for an extra two seconds.
And with that, you've just successfully given your nitro engine a proper break-in. Go forth and be on your own merry way.
by sunny on March 17, 2010
Your RC won't start, has come to a sudden halt or runs like it just woke up from 100 years of slumber. Don't panic. Most of the time, it's actually just a little snag that won't require an engineering degree (or plenty of RC experience) to fix. In fact, it's probably an obvious problem. Here's a laundry list of what you need to check.
1. Switches. Are you sure the car is turned on? Believe it or not, this is the most common culprit for novice drivers suddenly screaming like they're about to cry. Check the power switch on the vehicle and check your transmitter too. If both are turned on, then you're not stupid. Congratulations.
2. Transmitter. Are you sure you have the right one for the car you're using? Look for the frequency label on both the vehicle and the transmitter. Oooops. If that's not the culprit, check the antennas. Make sure they're not damaged and are installed properly.
3. Batteries. Change the batteries (or install them, in case you forgot - duh). Make sure you insert it snugly, facing the right directions.
4. Fuel. If you're driving a nitro RC, check the fuel tank. In case it's not running on empty, check the fuel system. Warning: this can get a bit involved. First, try adjusting the fuel mixture (leaning out or enriching it) and see if that solves the problem. If not, look for bends or tears in the fuel line, as well as blockage (you have to disconnect it). Also, inspect the tank and lids for any air leaks.
5. Servos. We're getting a bit more advanced here, but this is usually the problem when you can make the RC do some things but not others (that it's supposed to - you can't expect a monster truck to fly 30 feet in the air). To test, unplug the servos and put them on a different receiver, then check if it responds properly.
Now, if none of those things are the culprit, then you might have a more serious problem on your hands. Unless you know what you're doing, we recommend just going down to your local shop to have them take a look.
