by sunny on April 26, 2010
Looking to take your RC down the tracks for the first time? No need to mince words, you'll probably lose. Just because your chances of winning are slim doesn't mean you shouldn't do your best, right? After all, giving it all is how you improve in this game.
1. Aim for consistency. Your first couple of times racing should be about trying to get consistent lap times. Forget about beating that obnoxious loud dude and his beefed-up truck. Instead, aim to run a consistent course lap to lap.
2. Let faster trucks have their way. Sure, you can be competitive and refuse to give way during tangles. Do realize it's the easiest way to slow everyone down, including yourself, apart from heightening the chances of accidents occurring. Unless you've got a good shot at winning, wrecking your truck isn't worth the ego boost. You can get them later - after putting in some practice time.
3. Make sure your car can handle the occasional nervous driving. Racing brings out everyone's nerves. That means a potentially disastrous trigger finger at the most inopportune times. As long as your vehicle can recover and keep itself from spinning out, you'll be fine.
4. Watch experienced racers run the course. If you get the chance, watch some of the more experienced drivers handle the course. What lines are they talking? Where do they go fast or slow? Which jumps are they going for and which ones are they passing on? Seeing that gives you a good idea of how you should handle the tracks come race time.
by sunny on April 20, 2010
Schumacher just announced an update to one of the fastest cars in their roster. Boasting blistering speeds, the new Schumacher 2010 Nitro Fusion 28 Turbo is officially one of the most insanely neck-breaking RC models in the planet.
How fast can it go? A crazy top speed of over 80 mph, according to the company, which means it's going to leave me on my 50mph scooter in a head-to-head race. Powered by Picco's 4.5cc Schumacher X28 engine, it produces a hefty 3.25 horsepower and 40,000 rpm (compared to the 2.85 hp at 33,000 rpm of the previous Fusion 28), making for a fully race-tuned monster.
The Schumacher Fusion 28 Turbo is a four-wheel drive roadburner, with the street-savvy looks to match its awesome power. It comes with a pre-painted silver body with a either a blue or red trim, 12mm touring car wheel hex and high-grip ATS competition foam tires. Control is provided by a 2.4GHz digital radio system, with most everything you need ready to run out of the box.
Notable features of the 1/10th-scale model includes a 3-speed transmission, a CNC alloy tuned pipe, a 4mm thick anodized aluminum chassis, a fully-adjustable suspension based on the Fusion R12 and alloy shocks. Schumacher is also offering a full range of option parts compatible with the ride.
Available now, the Schumacher Fusion 28 Turbo is priced at £399.99.
Specifications:
Power Source: Nitro
Model Type: 4WD, ON-ROAD, LEISURE
Length: 420mm
Width: 200mm
Top Speed: 80+ mph
Build State: RTR
[Schumacher]
by sunny on March 29, 2010
You've got a new nitro engine. Learning how to break it in the right way is the shortest course to guaranteeing long-lasting performance, with the least amount of upkeep necessary. Failing to do so won't exactly get you with a messed up ride, but it leaves the doorway open for more frequent problems down the line.
What You Need
For your break-in, you need the following things:
- Around two hours of free time
- Three to five tanks of nitro fuel
- A clean, flat surface to run the car in
- Plenty of patience to do it the right way
Getting To Work
Start up the car and check to see if fuel is moving through the lines. If it doesn't reach the carburetor after five seconds, try priming the engine (i.e. place and release your finger over the tip of the exhaust for a couple of seconds). Make sure to release as soon as you see the fuel making its way accordingly. Holding on too long can cause the engine to flood and lock up.
The idea behind using five tanks of fuel is to increase the amount and duration of throttle with every run. Some advise making do with three, although we recommend running the full range and using five tanks.
On the first tank, give the engine a 1/4th throttle slowly (note on the slow throttle acceleration for all five tanks) for about two seconds, then hit the brakes. A nice trail of blue smoke should come from the exhaust. If not, try moving the air/fuel needle a quarter turn at a time to richen the fuel mixture until it starts blowing smoke. Continue the same quarter-throttle then braking until you run the tank to near-empty. Before going dry, pinch the fuel line (to turn engine off) and rest for fifteen minutes.
On the second tank, you do the same thing while going to half-throttle in three seconds. For the third, you do the same thing, then run three second counts while at half-throttle, before hitting the brakes. On the fourth, you go full throttle three seconds before braking. In your last tank, you do the same thing, except you hold the full throttle for an extra two seconds.
And with that, you've just successfully given your nitro engine a proper break-in. Go forth and be on your own merry way.
by sunny on March 17, 2010
Your RC won't start, has come to a sudden halt or runs like it just woke up from 100 years of slumber. Don't panic. Most of the time, it's actually just a little snag that won't require an engineering degree (or plenty of RC experience) to fix. In fact, it's probably an obvious problem. Here's a laundry list of what you need to check.
1. Switches. Are you sure the car is turned on? Believe it or not, this is the most common culprit for novice drivers suddenly screaming like they're about to cry. Check the power switch on the vehicle and check your transmitter too. If both are turned on, then you're not stupid. Congratulations.
2. Transmitter. Are you sure you have the right one for the car you're using? Look for the frequency label on both the vehicle and the transmitter. Oooops. If that's not the culprit, check the antennas. Make sure they're not damaged and are installed properly.
3. Batteries. Change the batteries (or install them, in case you forgot - duh). Make sure you insert it snugly, facing the right directions.
4. Fuel. If you're driving a nitro RC, check the fuel tank. In case it's not running on empty, check the fuel system. Warning: this can get a bit involved. First, try adjusting the fuel mixture (leaning out or enriching it) and see if that solves the problem. If not, look for bends or tears in the fuel line, as well as blockage (you have to disconnect it). Also, inspect the tank and lids for any air leaks.
5. Servos. We're getting a bit more advanced here, but this is usually the problem when you can make the RC do some things but not others (that it's supposed to - you can't expect a monster truck to fly 30 feet in the air). To test, unplug the servos and put them on a different receiver, then check if it responds properly.
Now, if none of those things are the culprit, then you might have a more serious problem on your hands. Unless you know what you're doing, we recommend just going down to your local shop to have them take a look.
by sunny on March 15, 2010
Are you planning to buy your first nitro-powered RC car? Here are a few things you should know before diving into the grin inducing hobby.
Nitro isn't gas. Some people refer to nitro RCs as gas-powered models. However, nitro fuel isn't the same as the gas you put in your real car. Don't confuse the two and don't make the mistake of filling it up from your crappy sedan's full tank. Nitro fuel has three main components - methanol, nitromethane and oil. This is mixed together with several additives, such as anti-corrosion agents. The fuel rating is based on the percentage of nitromethane (typically 20%).
Nitro RCs are fast. If you want speed and power, then nitro is the way to go. If too much of both overwhelm you, it might be wise to get your feet wet driving electric RC cars or trucks first.
Nitro fuel requires special handling. It's highly-flammable, not to mention poisonous, so avoid lighted cigarettes and open flames when you're around it. Make sure to wipe up any spills, especially on your car, lest have that chain-smoker at the track set it aflame when he lights one up. Oh yeah, don't mistake it for beer, either. Blech.
Nitro RCs require better driving skills. High-speed driving does have its drawbacks - the learning curve becomes much higher. There are many nitro-powered cars at all categories designed for beginners, though, so make sure you opt for those, instead of advanced models. More importantly, try to get a feel for the car's power before driving it at full speed, unless you want to risk damaging your $500 purchase on its first run.
Nitro RCs are kinda bad for indoors. While you can use them inside your house if you want, the fuel fumes, engine noise and excessive speeds make that a bad idea. Take it outdoors and go nuts.
Nitro RCs require more maintenance. Getting your car running isn't as easy as flipping a switch - you need to get fuel onto it, check the air filter, check the glow plug and more. You'll need to carry a quick-fill bottle along too.
Sure, they require more work and are more expensive. However, nitro RCs usually also mean more fun. It's a positive trade-off and one you're not likely to regret.
[Image Credit: Imageshack]
by sunny on February 22, 2010
The Kyosho Inferno GT2 Corvette C6-R comes from the Inferno series, one of the best-selling RTR nitro kits of all time. That should say a lot about what this car is about and, I have to say, it's hard to be disappointed.
Like most of the Inferno line, the GT2 comes in different championship-winning bodies, including the Red Bull Audi D4, the McLaren F1 GTR and the Aston Martin DB9 Gulf. Why choose the Corvette C6-R? Sure, there's accounting for taste, but in my mind, it's easily the sexiest of the lot. The fully-licensed replica body is just downright grand.
A long wheelbase chassis provides the foundation for the car. Being stretched, in this case, allows for greater stability, which you will notice when performing neck-breaking runs and turns at high speed. The added length also enhances the look, leaving it more proportional.
The Inferno GT2 comes with a big 4.6cc (.28 c.i.) pull start engine. A pilot-type crankshaft allows the clutch to be perfectly aligned with the motor, producing more power, as well as allowing owners to easily slot in an aftermarket replacement engine. The 150cc fuel tank features a quick-fill spring-loaded top, allowing you to refill the tank while the engine is running. It can manage runtimes of up to 15 minutes, then top-up again without shutting off. Other notable features include durable double A-arm suspension (extreme durability), two-channel radio with high torque servos, double disc brakes and a smaller 34mm flywheel.
Based on the Pratt & Miller racer that ruled the GT1 roost of the LeMans/ALMS series, the Kyosho Inferno GT2 Corvette C6-R marries both aggressive looks and tight performance in a downright sleek package. It's big, it's sexy, it's powerful - just the way on-road racers should be.
Specifications:
- Length: 20.28 in. (515mm)
- Width: 12.2 in. (310mm)
- Height: 5.31 in. (135mm)
- Wheelbase: 14.17 in. (360mm)
- Tread (F/R): 10.31/10.43 in. (262/265mm)
- Tire size: 3.82x1.89 in. (97x48mm)
- Gear Ratio: 10.14:1/6.3:1 (1st/2nd)
- Weight: approx. 8 lbs. 1 oz. (3650g)
- Engine: GXR28SG
by sunny on February 10, 2010
The XRAY NT1 has been one of the most sought-after nitro touring racers of the past few years. It's not a surprise, considering the number of both major race events it has won and RC awards it has bagged. Looking to build on this success, XRAY has forged on with further developing the vehicle, eventually coming up with the new XRAY NT1-2010 Specs 1/10 Luxury Nitro Racing Sedan, which turns the already formidable racer into an even more powerful machine.
XRAY dubs the NT1-2010 as the “the world’s lowest CG nitro touring car platform.” One look at the thing and you'll know they're not kidding with the claim. Not only does the low profile look amazing - it should guarantee stable and precise handling too.
Want to know what's new? The 2010 version boasts a new front suspension (with wheelbase adjustment), narrower front lower arms, a more refined rear shock tower, wider 2-speed 2nd gear, reinforced suspension, a more symmetrical radio plate, wider drivetrain belts. a new rear roll center bridge and many more, including previously optional components that now come as part of the set.
As before, it uses a CNC-machined 3mm Swiss 7075 T6 chassis, allowing for excellently laid-out components that make fine-tuning and adjustments easy. The monoblock engine mount (Multi-Flex 1-piece) provides easy mounting and adjustment for your engine of choice, eliminating the need for perennial gear mesh changes.
XRAY calls the NT1 a "sophisticated, professional, high-competition nitro touring car." Take a gander at the specs list and it's easy to see just how race- and performance-oriented this platform is. Want the best? You can't complain about success - and this car has the credentials in droves.
More at Team XRAY
by sunny on February 2, 2010
Followers of RC touring cars will definitely find delight in the Schumacher Fusion 28, one of the hands-down fastest nitro racers in the manufacturer's line. Meant to go neck-to-neck with the fastest competition, this 1/10th scale super saloon is a speed demon of the highest order.
Hailed by some as the "most exciting touring car ever created," it boasts the powerful Schumacher X28 (4.5cc) engine (2.85 hp at 33,000 rpm), which is built by legendary Italian builders, Picco. Tuned for high-speed racing, it boasts blistering on-road speeds of up to 80mph, making this car strictly reserved for more advanced RC fanatics.
The Schumacher Nitro Fusion 28 comes with a three-speed transmission (making for quick acceleration), a fully-adjustable 4WD suspension (which should ensure smooth handling), championship-based foam tires and a 4mm thick anodized aluminum chassis. To help you with getting the hang of the controls, Schumacher packed in a finely-tuned braking system that should help you build up confidence on your way to mastering your car's controls.
It brings very aggressive styling by way of the pre-trimmed body shell (based on the Nissan Skyline GT-R), in-your-face decals, durable white wheels and sporty rear wing. It's available as a ready-to-run, requiring only 10% nitro with synthetic oil fuel, 12 AA batteries and a cordless torque drill.
Serious RC hobbyists need a serious car for high-speed on-road racing. The Schumacher Nitro Fusion 28 RTR is about as threatening as they come. With innate power and a decent selection of upgrade parts, it's the kind of racer that can strike fear among the competition.
Specifications:
- Power Source: NITRO
- Model Type: 4WD, ON-ROAD, LEISURE
- Length: 420mm
- Width: 200mm
- Top Speed: 80 mph
- Build State: 90% or RTR
More info here
